Archive for August, 2009

Entonces, un Otra Vez

At la Poesia, where meat plates were eaten:

At la Poesia

L to R: Jan, German; Ali, Parisienne; Unnamed Pole; Micheal, Swiss.

I wrote an exquisitely crafted post yesterday about my trip to a tango concert at a contemporary art museum on Wednesday, the strange Argentine accent, and a few other very interesting things. I accidentally navigated away from the page before hitting post, losing all the brilliance.

~So, let me summarize~

I went to a tango concert with a German, an Austrian, a Pole, a Parisian, and a Swiss (not a show, just tango music in an intimate, dimly lit setting) at which the black-clad musicians and middle-aged man singing emoted gracefully and, I’m sure, thoughtfully, although I wasn’t able to fully appreciate it because my Spanish is not quite that good yet. And then we went to La Poesia for meat plates.

~And~

The Argentine accent is an acquired taste, but a good one. We say our yuh sounds as shuh. So,

“Ella llege a la calle” sounds like “Aysha shaygay a la caushay.”

~Also~

I went running with Ben the Brit, who is a nice guy, today. We will go out for a brewski later on. And it’s already getting mucho calor, even though it’s still technically the middle of winter. The clima is going to be unreasonably, unbearably hot later in my South American adventure.

~Finally~

It’s incredible how quickly one can adapt to a situation. It’s all a state of mind, isn’t it? Thanks to those of you who told me that I might have a little bit of a shock on my arrival, but everything would work out soon enough. That’s exactly how it went. People are kind, and helpful, and lead interesting lives very different from my own. As such, this little trip has turned out to be a good idea. And I’m learning so much Deutsch!

Chau.

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Australian ≠ Austrian

Again, drumming/dancing on Sunday:

San Telmo Sunday Night

You should check out the short video, too.

We have fake little dialogues in Spanish class (currently myself, a young Chicagoan named Kelly, and a rotating roster of teachers) now, in which we talk about our everyday lives and how we’re getting by. One of our topics was what we’ve been finding to eat, and on that I expounded in practically flawless Spanglish that with the running, I am used to eating huge amounts of calories everyday, maybe 3 or 4 thousand, and mostly in the form of condiments added to beans and rice. To that point, I’d been able to find arroz, but not frijoles and asked my teacher que tal? It seems that they don’t exist in Argentina as they’re considered a meat substitute, and we have plenty of carne to go around. So she suggested lentils (lentijas) and that I may be able to purchase them in a health food store.

I actually found them at a supermercado, Leader Price.

In other news, something that has been at the forefront of my mind these last 10 days but I’ve been reluctant to write about, because, well, it’s been done, is that women here are absolutely gorgeous. Young women, middle aged women, little old ladies, the women that work behind the counter at fancy hotels in Recoleta and the girls selling handicrafts on the street. They’re some kind of beautiful mix of European and Latin American heritage. And somehow even the turistas are prettier for it. It’s overwelming. And, frankly, wonderful.

And that’s the last I’ll speak of it. At least for a little while.

Spanish class, aside from the occasional gastronomic letdown, is progressing well. The teacher that Kelly and I have had for the last couple of days has been a little mystified by our occasional elefante-sized gaps in our knowledge, but we’ve all managed to keep cool heads and are ending these somewhat intense 4 hour sessions as, for the most part, amigos. I’m learning some Spanish, and am proud and frustrated and hopeful for my skills. And I signed up for another week.

Kai moved in, and he is cool. And not Australian, but Austrian. He’s a good guy to have here, because he seems to be a doer, and as such likes to engage in activites that I may otherwise not think to do, like go to a Bocas Junior game. And we went out for medialunes this morning. Which are, BTW, a huge thing in Buenos Aires.

To sum up, for martes, el vienticinco de agosto:

No beans.
Beautiful women.
Spanish class.
Kai is good. And Austrian.

Topics to be dealt with on another occasion:

Free time stretching before me.
Out of books.
Need to find a place to live after 9/12.
Amazing drumming on Sunday.
Huge city, a mil varied barrios. Perspective changing every day.
Could easily find job, live here. Or anywhere.

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Hoodwinked!

La Recoleta Cemetary:

Recoleta Cemetary

I went on a little trip to Recoleta yesterday to see the famous cemetery and to soak up the sights. I was hoofing it over there and had stopped at a park to check out my Guia “T”, and made the mistake of looking like a dumbfounded tourist. Luckily, Juan was right there to help me.

“Hola, senor. Where are you trying to go? My name is Juan and I work here. You can tell from my green vest with inscrutable patches on it. I am helpful and hardworking.” Juan very kindly showed me exactly how to get where I wanted to go in my Guia “T” and walked away with a kind smile and warm chau.

“Oh, I almost forgot. I am collecting money for various things. Let me show you a brochure with many causes. Babies need food, senor. children need clothes. No, that’s not enough money for the babies. That’s OK, I can wait.” It was at about this time that I realized Juan didn’t really work “here,” or maybe anywhere. It wasn’t too bad, though, I was only really duped out of 10 pesos. Which isn’t that much, really. And I fed some babies.

Also, I went on a fun night out with some of the kids on Friday. We went to posh Palermo and ate at a fancy meat restaurant, and then went to a packed little bar and ate manis and threw the shells on the ground. It was a good time, and I’m learning that it’s not that big a deal to stay out until 5:00 in the morning when you don’t leave for dinner until 10. It’s how we do it here.

At el bar:

At un Bar En Palermo

Also, I miss the Norwegians. But there’s an Australian bloke (mate? chum? geezer?) coming in their place tomorrow. I hear he likes to chat. That makes one of us. But it will be nice to have someone else here. Right now it’s just Maribel and Michael the Swiss and me here, and none of us really speak a common language. Other than tango, of course.

I’m having fun. And learning a bit of Spanish. Oh, and I ran like a million miles today, which almost killed me.

Yours truly,

No, “deee LAY neee”

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La Boca (Not Burger)

I took a little tour of La Boca (a barrio in Buenos Aires) as an extracurricular activity at school.

Here’s a picture of one of the super touristy bits:

El Camanito en Boca

The high points of the trip were:

A] Learning that I could understand at least a little of what Maribel (our troop leader and, yes, my roommate) was saying, enough to follow along a bit and laugh at some of the important parts, and

B] When the little kids walking home from school dressed in doctor coats (the school uniform of the neighborhood, mucho cute) waved and said, “Hola Turistas!” and,

C] Seeing El (la?) Stadia de Bocas Junior. It’s immense. And plopped down in the middle of an admittedly poor area, which makes it seem like the revenue generator for quite a few people. And the hordes of policia outside, ready to tackle the hooligans as they left the match.

La Stadia de Bocas Junior en Boca

Also, yo corro muy rapidmente. A la fin de semana, yo va correr largo.

On to tarea!

Chau, Delaney.

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En La Academia

En La Academia Buenos Aires.

En La Academia

The fourth floor of a giant old building about a block away from La Plaza de Mayo. It consists of a courtyard/lightwell surrounded by a dozen or so small classrooms. My classroom (at least thus far) has been on the mezzanine level, behind those dark glass panels on the right.

The coffee is very strong, almost Turkish. But it does the trick.

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La Casa Rosada

La Casa Rosada, where El Presidente works and coups and crazy political fistfights are held. Also, tons of police barricades, continuous protests, and graffiti all over the place. And pink:

La Casa Rosa

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I forget how to say “It’s Raining”

And they’re playing Whitesnake at the cafe.

“And I made up my mind, I ain’t wasting no more time. Here I go again.”

Que loco mundo, no?

The second day of class came and went. I can’t tell you how good it is to have a little bit of productive human interaction in one’s life. My teacher Cecilia says I’m a good student, but I have a feeling it might be a situation like that of our beginning ski instructor, in which every student they have is the single best student they’ve encountered. It’s going well, though, and challenging. But I’m learning a lot, and promptly forgetting it.

I really like the Norwegians. I see them as kids (they’re probably 23 or 24), but they know a hell of a lot more about traveling in foreign countries than I do. I’m actually bummed that they’re leaving in a few days. Hopefully the new kids that move in speak un poco de ingles, tambien.

Also, the catarro situation is almost resolved. You’ll be happy to know that the graphic scenario that had evolved concerning my lungs and nasal region has come and gone, and I’m only a bit congested and slightly pink around the edges. To my great relief. I ran like a champ yesterday with no ill effects.

They’re going to kick me out pretty soon (I finished my hamburguesa a long time ago), so I’ll leave it at that, but as soon as we have access al casa, I’ll post a couple more pictures.

Chau (this is how we spell it).

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Musica, First Run

Here’s a street in my neighborhood from last night. Most of them were much more crowded:

San Telmo Street

So I finally start Spanish school tomorrow. I’m excited for that. I have a feeling that I’m going to be the dumbest one there, which won’t be too fun, but at least I’ll be able to start saying things that mean sense. And maybe I can learn how to say “speak more slowly, please.” In Spanish, I mean.

I went running just now, and it didn’t feel too bad. I took it pretty easy, and the only slightly miserable part was that I had various fluids running down my face most of the time. Tears, oddly, were the biggest culprit. I’ve had watery eyes since I got here, and the catarro (thanks dad) hasn’t helped much. Jeez, I complain a lot. I was actually happy to run and it helped clear me up a bit. Good for the old morale, too, although I really need to get healthy and start running in earnest if I’m actually going to do this marathon.

Last night I was walking around my neighborhood (which is, in fact, great, and, quaint, and dirty, and a little touristy), and another crazy Latin drum band came through. They make their way down these tiny little streets and the sounds they make are, well, pretty fantastic. Do you ever hear African drum music on the Putumayo (WASP alert) sampler and think, “Damn, this is what music is really supposed to be like, just rhythm”? Well, let me tell you. The Portenos have the entire continent of Africa beat. So to speak.

And Maribel told me that you don’t say buenos noches in Buenos Aires after dark, you have to wait a bit later, at least until after 8. That’s when nighttime really begins. And I’m usually going home. Waaht-waaa.

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Tengo una maladia?

Graffito by the Pancho Stand

Last night at about 8 I got the sniffles, which by 4 a.m. had turned into maybe the worst cold I’ve had in 10 years. Between that and the (albeit really, really, good) Argentine National Drum Corps pounding out a rhythm next to my bedroom until dawn, I was pretty miserable. Thoughts like “swine flu?” kept entering my mind. So, I slept until noon, didn’t take a shower until 1, and didn’t leave the house until 2.

But then, I walked down to the Puerto Madero. And I felt good. And I bought some more groceries (the kid said “thank you!”), and didn’t have to use my backup toilet paper kleenex the whole time.

It’s the little things, isn’t it?

I’m not sure if I’ll be able to run much tomorrow. I still feel pretty crappy. And even down next to the ocean, I can feel the pollution in my lungs with every breath. But, we’ll see. Maybe I’ll feel totally restored by morning.

Ciao-ciao.

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Money, Holiday, Cold, Big Shoulders

Today I continued the search for an ATM that will give me money. I found one that will give me at least pesos, so I won’t starve anytime soon (I bought a whole lot of galletitas). I might just have to bring a really big stack of pesos to school on Tuesday. It would be really nice to find one that gives out dollars, though. The CitiBank ATMs allegedly do, just not to me for some reason. Anti-American bias, maybe.

Did you know that Monday is an Argentine national holiday? It’s the Día del Libertador José de San Martín. So, you know, celebrate in whatever way you feel is properly respectful. I think that I’ll be celebrating by walking around town a lot, possibly buying cookies.

This weekend is allotted to finding a good place to run. The Norwegian girls say to just head down to the waterfront, which I’ll do tomorrow morning. One thing that I didn’t plan on and may be a little weird for running is that there’s a lot of air pollution here. I can feel it in my throat all the time, and there’s a haze around the city that you can see even in the space of a few blocks. Hopefully around the waterfront it’ll be a little clearer.

Also, the Argentines are wearing big wool coats and mufflers and heavy boots. And it’s 75 degrees outside. The Norwegians (the people I know that speak English, also my roommates, med students, and blonde) say that it’s because they’re overly sensitive to the cold, seeing as they’ve got very warm summers. I’m wearing a t-shirt and sweating. Does that mean I’m overly sensitive to the warm?

Buenos Aires is a big shoulders kind of city, which takes a little getting used to. Most people on the sidewalk seem to have a New York-ish kind of expression, uninterested diligence. Walking is actually kind of a sport, especially walking quickly next to traffic on narrow streets with pretty aggressive drivers. I’m getting used to it, though. As far as I can tell, the relationship between pedestrians and vehicles is more egalitarian (word choice?). That is to say, people and cars inhabit the same place on the totem pole of danger. Cars will barrel down tiny alleys full of people while laying on the horn to clear pedestrians. But walkers will also dart into the street in the middle of traffic to take advantage of the smallest space between vehicles.

At least there’s a bit of mutual respect.

Ciao-ciao,

Delaney

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