Archive for September, 2009

Ahora, Estoy Turista

Coleccion de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat
Above: The Fortabat

I’ve been a turista lately, going to museums and seeing sights. Last week I went to the Coleccion de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, which is a long name; I think that people here just call it the Fortabat. This is a museum that Sonja and Katharina had told me about it and said that they’d enjoyed their visit, but suggested that I might not appreciate it because it’s “just art, mostly painting” and there were no explosions or anything to keep my attention. I was, of course, offended and once I found my way there I studied each piece for agonizing amounts of time, starting in the 17th century and working my way toward the present day, looking for subtle changes in technique and use of light through the centuries. I did this, of course, to prove to myself that I am not a Philistine and that we norteamericanos don’t always need explosions to be captivated. It was a beautiful building and and extensive collection, but seriously, it was pretty boring.

MALBA Sign
Above: The MALBA

But! The next day I went to the MALBA and realized that yes, I do love art and can be amazed and intrigued and yes, inspired by sculpture and painting and architecture and saying such-and-such is art even though in any other context it would just be a chair or a greenhouse or a canvas painted all the same color. It was great, and I highly recommend it to anyone visiting Buenos Aires. And I went on Miercoles, so it only cost 5 pesos, which is like US$1.50.

I also recently went on a Buenos Aires City Bus Tour with Rebekah and Julie and a young woman named Linda, who is unsurprisingly from Germany. I’ve not got much to say about it, honestly. It seems like something that would have been really cool to go to the moment I got to the city, just to get a good overview of the highlights, but I’d already seen every single place the bus took us through, plus many more. It was a beautiful day, though, and sitting on the roof of a bus being driven around on a gorgeous day is a decent way to pass some time. Here are a few bus-tour-y photos:

Bus Aisle Bus Tour Bus Tour Bus Tour

I ran a bit. I meant to do 22 miles on Monday and had measured out an appropriate route, but missed a turn somewhere and ran a bit extra when I should have turned around at a certain street. I ended up only going about a mile and a half extra, but after a point, a mile and a half can mean quite a bit. My longest run here in Buenos Aires up to then had been 20 miles, and I ended up running 23.5 miles that day. However, I’m beginning to think that if I had a support van (like Dean Karnazes sometimes does) feeding me nutritious foods and keeping me hydrated (and providing bano services), I might be able to run indefinitely. The things that I always worry about while running are not exhaustion or how much my feet hurt (which really, they do), but if I’m going to get sick from dehydration or if I ate enough of the right kind of food beforehand to keep me going. And el bano, seriously. Public facilities are few and far between in Buenos Aires; I’ve had a couple of close calls.

We also went to the Metropolitan Cathedral. ‘Nuff said:
Buenos Aires Cathedral Cathedral Ceiling Michael with Dead Guy Saint and Flag in Church Jail

Chau.

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Teenage Boliche, Caffe Sap, Etc.

I went out for a long night on Friday to see Ben off, as he left to start traveling with the missus (which means girlfriend in British) on Saturday. We went to Doppelganger, which is a really great place, lots of fabulous atmosphere and well-crafted beverages, and continued on to Del Plata for meats, followed by Bar Seddon for a beer or two (and a bit of old-girlfriend-talk inanity on my part), then a club called Carnal that didn’t really live up to its name, and finally another club with no name and really terrible music populated (and staffed) by 18 year-olds. The conflict of the evening arose when I could not figure out the coat check at the last, unnamed club. There was a 20 peso cover charge which you might have thought included coat check, but sadly did not. I was, however, given a ticket that looked a lot like something one might use at a coat check but was instead to be used for beverages. After three or four trips back to pantomime with the 18 year-old staffing the coat check room, I managed to figure it out, and was able to dance awkwardly with the rest of the teenagers for an hour or so before we all just gave the hell up and went home. But it was fun, and sad to see Old Ben go.

Dinner at Del Plata
Steak at Del Plata At Del Plata The Bens at Doppelganger Glowing Caipirinha

Here’s a fun fact about Argentina: they don’t have butter knives. Argentines, at least Portenos, seem to like to eat a lot of Manteca (which means butter, contrary to what spanishdict.com might say), which is good, but every knife that I’ve come across in a home or restaurant has been a steak knife. So whenever you’re spreading butter you have to be careful. Seriously, these people like to eat some meat.

Also, my newest challenge is getting my hair cut. I learned today that it’s called a corte de pelo, and I think that if I say corto en los lados y un poco largo sobre el alto, it might work. At the very least I can show them a picture of myself on my phone, right? Seriously, this is terrifying; I hate getting my hair cut at home, and I speak English pretty well. Wish me luck, eh? Bueno Suerte?

Chau-zers.

P.S. Now that I have my own place, complete with complimentary french press, I’ve been making my own coffee out of the finely ground, black-as-night stuff that I can buy at Disco down the street. And as they don’t sell half and half in the supermercados here, I’ve had to make do with 100% cream. Add the giant-grained, unrefined sugar from my cupboard, and it’s some of the best coffee I’ve ever had. Seriously, I feel like I’m drinking the sap of the caffe tree or something.

Oh, and here’s an advertisement for the maraton that I will be winning in a couple weeks. It’s nice to see that it is, in fact, an actual event:
Billboard advertising the Maraton de Buenos Aires!

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Tiny, Well Groomed Dogs; Sailboat Dream

It’s raining today in Buenos Aires, and the buds have just appeared on the trees. It’s primavera, creo.

I moved into my new departmento on Lunes. So far, I like it a lot. I live in a swanky part of the city, in between Palermo and the Microcentro; as far as I can tell, most of my neighbors are old ladies, tiny, well-groomed dogs, and schoolgirls. There’s a very nice market one block away and many small tiendas/negocios very near. I also live 7 blocks from El Cementario Recoleta, 9 blocks from many great parks for running, and 2 blocks from Avenida Santa Fe. A map:


View Larger Map

My New Place in Recoleta My New Neighborhood
Left: my building, the shabbiest on the block (location, location, location); Right: Looking down Calle Juncal.

A few quick thoughts:

1] I’d heard a bit about alfajores and seen them for sale in tourist shops, as they’re famously delicious. Before trying one, I was skeptical and even held a bit of disdain for them; most alfajores sold in Buenos Aires look strikingly similar to little Debbie cakes and are packaged as such.

And then I tried one. And another. And many, many more. They’re magnificent. The recipe seems to be some devastating combination of fat (in the form of a lardy biscuit) and sugar (two layers of dulce de leche, another Argentine institution). I ate two in a row today after lunch and feel a little sick, but it was so worth it.

2] I didn’t pack a lot of clothes. I have five t-shirts (not counting running apparel), one pair of jeans, some khaki pants, poly pants, and a sweater, which are great for hanging out and shopping and school. But Portenos dress really well, especially in my new neighborhood. Ties with sweaters and/or sportcoats are the norm for men here and I feel like I stick out quite a bit with my rotating collection of grey T-shirts. So I may venture into the world of commercial apparel this week and purchase a shirt with a collar and a button or two.

3] I had a dream the night that I lost my bag in which I was wandering around the Petoskey Marina at night, a place that I’d always loved. It was a quiet night with a full moon and no one else was in the marina or on any of the boats. I wandered onto a sailboat and was standing on the deck watching the shore when I realized that the boat had not been moored to the slip, and had drifted away from the dock. I was a little unnerved at the situation I found myself in, and grew more uneasy as the sailboat made its way (as if powered by some unseen force) out of the slip and between the breakwater and the concrete pier and headed toward the open water of Little Traverse Bay. I heard a voice or felt a will urging me to make a decision, so I grabbed a line and jumped in the lake and swam to the dock, pulling the huge sailboat behind me. It was difficult, but I made it to the concrete pier.

It wasn’t the most bizarre dream, or scary, or even that out of the ordinary. But did you catch the symbolism?

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Bad Luck, a Learning Experience

I’m staying with Ben and Sonja and another nice Norwegian named Aina for a couple days until my new place in Recoleta opens up (tomorrow). I moved my stuff over to Ben’s on Sunday afternoon and had a bit of a misadventure.

I had my big backpack on, and my black satchel slung around my neck; I was also carrying a bag of food from my old place that I didn’t want to throw away so I thought it would be worth carrying the 5 or 6 blocks to my new digs. I made it to about 30 feet from the stoop of Ben’s building when I felt a bit of liquid drop onto my head. I didn’t think much of it, seeing as I’d had water from air conditioners & various other fluids drop onto my head walking down the street. However, it happened again (this time a whole lot more) a second or two later, and I thought that I’d had the misfortune of having someone’s dirty cleaning water thrown down onto me and my various bags. A woman brushed past me on the left just afterward and I thought it odd that she didn’t share my misfortune. She looked busy, however, so I didn’t think too much about it.

A kindly-looking middle-aged man across the street evidently saw what happened and gave a kind chuckle at my misfortune. He smiled and shook his head and pointed up at the building above me. I wasn’t too worried about it at this point; I knew that I had some pretty gross stuff on my head and bag but knew that I could take care of it as soon as I got inside the apartment. A few seconds later I arrived at Ben’s door and was ready to go in when the kindly man materialized next to me and took some tissues out of his pocket to help me clean off my head. I took some and wiped my head off. He suggested in rapid Spanglish and pantomime that I my bag was covered with the stuff and that I ought to set it down and he would help me clean it off. I was at the stoop at this point, and I rang the bell and was waiting to be let in (and my bag was pretty damned heavy), so I set my black satchel down, rested my big bag on top of it, and set my bag of food next to it. They were all directly in front of me, in the stoop of Ben’s building.

Kindly man magnanimously offered his bottle of water to help clean the (really, very disgusting, viscous, green, and rotten-meat-smelling) stuff off my bag. This is getting a little weird, isn’t it? Why is the man being so nice? Are you getting suspicious yet? So I took some of his proffered tissues, wet it with his water, and proceeded to wipe down my bag a bit. Keep in mind that I had my bags at my feet (still in the stoop) the whole time, and my attention was directed wholely at them as I waited to be let in. Until, that is, the kindly, decently dressed, helpful older man moved down the street a few feet and started speaking in rapid Spanish. He was holding up his bottle of water and tissues and said, (as far as I can remember) “You can buy these at the store for 2 pesos.” What a bizarre thing to say, right?

My attention returned to my bags and at the same time a couple of ladies opened the door to Ben’s lobby and asked me in. I gathered up my bags, set them in the foyer, saw Ben coming out of the elevator and made a pretty horrible realization:

I was missing a bag. Didn’t you see that coming?

I had a pretty agonizing fifteen or twenty minutes in which Ben took my bags up to his flat for me and I ran around the neighborhood looking for a kindly, evil man porting my satchel around. I was hating, hating, the people of Buenos Aires at this point, and despising myself for being so easily duped. I was trying to remember what I’d put into the black satchel, too, as I’d used it as a bit of a catch-all after I’d packed most everything else into my big bag. Of course, I’d thought I’d lost my passport, my credit cards (again), all my documentation, my iPhone, camera, and everything else I might possibly need to continue traveling and maybe even get home if I needed to. I was in a bad place.

I came home, Ben talked me down off the ledge (and made some tea, which I liked), and I gradually took stock of what I’d lost. It turns out that the only thing of value was about $100 in American (my backup emergency funds), my dorky glasses, and sadly my camera, which I hope my credit card’s travel insurance will cover. And I’d already gotten all the pictures off it the night before.

So, did you figure out what happened? The liquid didn’t come from the apartment above, the lady threw the green rotten meat juice at me. And the man moved my attention down the street to allow someone (the lady?) to snatch my bag as I was trying to understand what the hell he was talking about. This all happened in the space of 30 seconds. And I was at the door of my new apartment.

Blerg.

I’m going to the police station today and skyping my credit card company again to report the camera stolen, which should be fun.

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The Papas Fritas are Equally Good

Check out the flickr page to see photographic over-documentation of my apartment for the next 2 days:

My Apartment in San Telmo

I went out again last night to Desnivel, the restaurant at which I had a life changing steak a week or two ago. My bife de chorizo was different, but again, ridiculous; transcendent of the medium. I wish I’d taken a picture of the amazing pieces of meat instead of these goofballs:

Desnivel Steaks

We’d taken in the Argentina/Uruguay game earlier that night and I really enjoyed myself, if only because my adrenaline was kept at a peak level as I was afraid the be-business-suit-ed hooligans with us in the packed (unfortunately, Irish-themed) bar were going to start knifing people when Argentina lost. I know only a few curse words in Spanish, but I heard all of them repeated many dozens of times over the course of an hora of the Argentina national team losing their berth in the World Cup. But they have a slew of rousing hooligan songs, too, mostly incorporating those few words rhymed with various players (and their mothers’) names.

Wish me luck tomorrow on my last day of Castellano school. I’ll also be looking at my (hopefully) new place in Recoleta.

Chau.

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Goodbye, Dentists

A garage:

Empty Garage

Jan y Juliana the German dentists left today to start their travels. They’re a great couple of kids that I could absolutely see myself hanging out with in a non-Argentine setting. Too bad; I’ll miss them.

Also, started Nivel III today. It’s getting pretty intense, but I really like New Marcella. And Cai (the Austrian, spelling corrected, who is back in town today after a quick sojourn down to Ushuaia) suggested that after I finish school I might take that free time & see if anybody needs an English tutor for a month. That would be very productive. And ambitious.

And finally, I really need to find a place to live; my space here is done in a few days and the alternate place suggested by Silvana is not my first choice. Juliana suggested that Sonia (also Deutsch) may be leaving her place with the two Bens (The Brit and otherwise), so I may be able to work something out with them. I’d just have to find a place to live for the intervening week. Maybe try sleeping on the street?

Just kidding, parents!

Chau.

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No Polo en Sabado. Entonces, Bailado.

Fellow Travelers,

I was planning on going to a ladies polo match yesterday afternoon, but after walking a thousand miles into Palermo, I got a call from kind Anique saying that they had taken the bus there only to find that it had been canceled on account of mud. So I walked around Palermo a bit and enjoyed the nice day. I found an amazing park for running and paddleboating (if I ever decide to take that up as a hobby; a racquetball replacement?), which will come in very handy as I really need to rack up the running miles in the coming weeks.

I ended up walking around for a number of hours and got home pretty exhausted. So I ate lentejas y arroz and joined Ben and some nice Europeans for a drink before heading over to Jan and Juliana’s (remember, the German dentist?) hostel to watch the Brasil/Argentina game. It was, inevitably, a little weird. This game is, I’m told, a pretty big deal here, but all we turistas in the hostel couldn’t really muster up too much national pride for Argentina, and quite a few of us (guiltily) really had no idea what was going on on the screen, anyway. I did manage to make it to Plaza Dorrego to see the last sad few minutes of the game on a huge screen in the middle of all the cafes, and it had a much better atmosphere, even a little heckling from the Brasilianos. We stayed outside for an hour or two and drank some chopps before young Julie (my new Deutsch roommate) and I headed over to Kelly’s (from class) apartment to rendezvous before…

…heading out to a club at 2:30 in the morning!

What!? Seriously. I can’t get over this. It’s how it’s done here. Marcella the Revolutionary said that she’ll go out to a club once or twice a year and she’ll just go to bed early that night and wake up at two or three in the morning to go dancing. Que loco! Anyway, we stayed up really late and had a lot of fun and I saw some surprisingly horrible dancing and at 8:30 the next morning got medialunes and cafe doble with Kelly’s bouncer novio who insisted on correcting our pronunciation obsessively, although other than that he was a really nice guy.

The boliche:
Pacha Buenos Aires

And then, I went to bed and did very very little the next day. El fin.

Y, chau.

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The Untimely Death of Body Fred, or, Disculpe Mozos.

At the ponies:

At the Ponies

I accidentally had a lot of fun Monday evening. I’d left my chaqueta at the Norwegian girls’ new house on Saturday (incidentally, their names are Tori and Elisabeth), and took a cab over there with some other very nice young ladies and ended up at the Hipodromo betting on the ponies. Body Fred had a great name and a strong set of teeth, so I was fairly sure I’d win a hefty sum. Alas, he didn’t even show himself on the track. A minute or so before the race began, Body Fred bowed out. Or maybe he died. I’m afraid I’ll never know. Anyway, I lost like $1000. JK, LOL.

La Bomba

After the excitement of the track, we needed to chill out a little bit, so we took (yet another) cab to the Teatro Konex to see something that I heard was called La Bamba and later learned was called La Bomba de Tiempo. And it was fun. The drumming here is unreal. I can’t say enough about it or really do it justice. We got there at maybe 9:00 and stayed a few hours (and I drank one GIANT beer) before going to a fancy restaurant in Palermo. And I left my wallet in a cab that had taken us to the fancy restaurant, but have since resolved the situation and all is right with the world so I don’t want to dwell on it.

Anyway, it was a blast, and I didn’t do my tareas that night but managed to wake up early the next morning and get it all done.

I tried again to register for the marathon and met resistance. It’s like they don’t want me to run 42.125 km or something. Like maybe I’m going to show them up. Babies. Does anyone know why I might not be able to register? Does it have something to do with not having a DNI number?

Chau.

P.S. My teacher Marcella (who is very cool and I’m pretty sure a radical revolutionary) told me that we Estados-Unidos-ians say gracias and por favor way too much. Mozos (see def. 3) think we’re making fun of them by being overly polite. Sorry about that, mozos. Seriously, my apologies.

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