Archive for category Buenos Aires
Bad Luck, a Learning Experience
Posted by Delaney in Argentina, Buenos Aires on September 14th, 2009
I’m staying with Ben and Sonja and another nice Norwegian named Aina for a couple days until my new place in Recoleta opens up (tomorrow). I moved my stuff over to Ben’s on Sunday afternoon and had a bit of a misadventure.
I had my big backpack on, and my black satchel slung around my neck; I was also carrying a bag of food from my old place that I didn’t want to throw away so I thought it would be worth carrying the 5 or 6 blocks to my new digs. I made it to about 30 feet from the stoop of Ben’s building when I felt a bit of liquid drop onto my head. I didn’t think much of it, seeing as I’d had water from air conditioners & various other fluids drop onto my head walking down the street. However, it happened again (this time a whole lot more) a second or two later, and I thought that I’d had the misfortune of having someone’s dirty cleaning water thrown down onto me and my various bags. A woman brushed past me on the left just afterward and I thought it odd that she didn’t share my misfortune. She looked busy, however, so I didn’t think too much about it.
A kindly-looking middle-aged man across the street evidently saw what happened and gave a kind chuckle at my misfortune. He smiled and shook his head and pointed up at the building above me. I wasn’t too worried about it at this point; I knew that I had some pretty gross stuff on my head and bag but knew that I could take care of it as soon as I got inside the apartment. A few seconds later I arrived at Ben’s door and was ready to go in when the kindly man materialized next to me and took some tissues out of his pocket to help me clean off my head. I took some and wiped my head off. He suggested in rapid Spanglish and pantomime that I my bag was covered with the stuff and that I ought to set it down and he would help me clean it off. I was at the stoop at this point, and I rang the bell and was waiting to be let in (and my bag was pretty damned heavy), so I set my black satchel down, rested my big bag on top of it, and set my bag of food next to it. They were all directly in front of me, in the stoop of Ben’s building.
Kindly man magnanimously offered his bottle of water to help clean the (really, very disgusting, viscous, green, and rotten-meat-smelling) stuff off my bag. This is getting a little weird, isn’t it? Why is the man being so nice? Are you getting suspicious yet? So I took some of his proffered tissues, wet it with his water, and proceeded to wipe down my bag a bit. Keep in mind that I had my bags at my feet (still in the stoop) the whole time, and my attention was directed wholely at them as I waited to be let in. Until, that is, the kindly, decently dressed, helpful older man moved down the street a few feet and started speaking in rapid Spanish. He was holding up his bottle of water and tissues and said, (as far as I can remember) “You can buy these at the store for 2 pesos.” What a bizarre thing to say, right?
My attention returned to my bags and at the same time a couple of ladies opened the door to Ben’s lobby and asked me in. I gathered up my bags, set them in the foyer, saw Ben coming out of the elevator and made a pretty horrible realization:
I was missing a bag. Didn’t you see that coming?
I had a pretty agonizing fifteen or twenty minutes in which Ben took my bags up to his flat for me and I ran around the neighborhood looking for a kindly, evil man porting my satchel around. I was hating, hating, the people of Buenos Aires at this point, and despising myself for being so easily duped. I was trying to remember what I’d put into the black satchel, too, as I’d used it as a bit of a catch-all after I’d packed most everything else into my big bag. Of course, I’d thought I’d lost my passport, my credit cards (again), all my documentation, my iPhone, camera, and everything else I might possibly need to continue traveling and maybe even get home if I needed to. I was in a bad place.
I came home, Ben talked me down off the ledge (and made some tea, which I liked), and I gradually took stock of what I’d lost. It turns out that the only thing of value was about $100 in American (my backup emergency funds), my dorky glasses, and sadly my camera, which I hope my credit card’s travel insurance will cover. And I’d already gotten all the pictures off it the night before.
So, did you figure out what happened? The liquid didn’t come from the apartment above, the lady threw the green rotten meat juice at me. And the man moved my attention down the street to allow someone (the lady?) to snatch my bag as I was trying to understand what the hell he was talking about. This all happened in the space of 30 seconds. And I was at the door of my new apartment.
Blerg.
I’m going to the police station today and skyping my credit card company again to report the camera stolen, which should be fun.
The Papas Fritas are Equally Good
Posted by Delaney in Argentina, Buenos Aires on September 10th, 2009
Check out the flickr page to see photographic over-documentation of my apartment for the next 2 days:

I went out again last night to Desnivel, the restaurant at which I had a life changing steak a week or two ago. My bife de chorizo was different, but again, ridiculous; transcendent of the medium. I wish I’d taken a picture of the amazing pieces of meat instead of these goofballs:

We’d taken in the Argentina/Uruguay game earlier that night and I really enjoyed myself, if only because my adrenaline was kept at a peak level as I was afraid the be-business-suit-ed hooligans with us in the packed (unfortunately, Irish-themed) bar were going to start knifing people when Argentina lost. I know only a few curse words in Spanish, but I heard all of them repeated many dozens of times over the course of an hora of the Argentina national team losing their berth in the World Cup. But they have a slew of rousing hooligan songs, too, mostly incorporating those few words rhymed with various players (and their mothers’) names.
Wish me luck tomorrow on my last day of Castellano school. I’ll also be looking at my (hopefully) new place in Recoleta.
Chau.
Goodbye, Dentists
Posted by Delaney in Argentina, Buenos Aires on September 7th, 2009
A garage:

Jan y Juliana the German dentists left today to start their travels. They’re a great couple of kids that I could absolutely see myself hanging out with in a non-Argentine setting. Too bad; I’ll miss them.
Also, started Nivel III today. It’s getting pretty intense, but I really like New Marcella. And Cai (the Austrian, spelling corrected, who is back in town today after a quick sojourn down to Ushuaia) suggested that after I finish school I might take that free time & see if anybody needs an English tutor for a month. That would be very productive. And ambitious.
And finally, I really need to find a place to live; my space here is done in a few days and the alternate place suggested by Silvana is not my first choice. Juliana suggested that Sonia (also Deutsch) may be leaving her place with the two Bens (The Brit and otherwise), so I may be able to work something out with them. I’d just have to find a place to live for the intervening week. Maybe try sleeping on the street?
Just kidding, parents!
Chau.
The Untimely Death of Body Fred, or, Disculpe Mozos.
Posted by Delaney in Argentina, Buenos Aires on September 2nd, 2009
At the ponies:

I accidentally had a lot of fun Monday evening. I’d left my chaqueta at the Norwegian girls’ new house on Saturday (incidentally, their names are Tori and Elisabeth), and took a cab over there with some other very nice young ladies and ended up at the Hipodromo betting on the ponies. Body Fred had a great name and a strong set of teeth, so I was fairly sure I’d win a hefty sum. Alas, he didn’t even show himself on the track. A minute or so before the race began, Body Fred bowed out. Or maybe he died. I’m afraid I’ll never know. Anyway, I lost like $1000. JK, LOL.

After the excitement of the track, we needed to chill out a little bit, so we took (yet another) cab to the Teatro Konex to see something that I heard was called La Bamba and later learned was called La Bomba de Tiempo. And it was fun. The drumming here is unreal. I can’t say enough about it or really do it justice. We got there at maybe 9:00 and stayed a few hours (and I drank one GIANT beer) before going to a fancy restaurant in Palermo. And I left my wallet in a cab that had taken us to the fancy restaurant, but have since resolved the situation and all is right with the world so I don’t want to dwell on it.
Anyway, it was a blast, and I didn’t do my tareas that night but managed to wake up early the next morning and get it all done.
I tried again to register for the marathon and met resistance. It’s like they don’t want me to run 42.125 km or something. Like maybe I’m going to show them up. Babies. Does anyone know why I might not be able to register? Does it have something to do with not having a DNI number?
Chau.
P.S. My teacher Marcella (who is very cool and I’m pretty sure a radical revolutionary) told me that we Estados-Unidos-ians say gracias and por favor way too much. Mozos (see def. 3) think we’re making fun of them by being overly polite. Sorry about that, mozos. Seriously, my apologies.
Australian ≠ Austrian
Posted by Delaney in Argentina, Buenos Aires on August 25th, 2009
Again, drumming/dancing on Sunday:

You should check out the short video, too.
We have fake little dialogues in Spanish class (currently myself, a young Chicagoan named Kelly, and a rotating roster of teachers) now, in which we talk about our everyday lives and how we’re getting by. One of our topics was what we’ve been finding to eat, and on that I expounded in practically flawless Spanglish that with the running, I am used to eating huge amounts of calories everyday, maybe 3 or 4 thousand, and mostly in the form of condiments added to beans and rice. To that point, I’d been able to find arroz, but not frijoles and asked my teacher que tal? It seems that they don’t exist in Argentina as they’re considered a meat substitute, and we have plenty of carne to go around. So she suggested lentils (lentijas) and that I may be able to purchase them in a health food store.
I actually found them at a supermercado, Leader Price.
In other news, something that has been at the forefront of my mind these last 10 days but I’ve been reluctant to write about, because, well, it’s been done, is that women here are absolutely gorgeous. Young women, middle aged women, little old ladies, the women that work behind the counter at fancy hotels in Recoleta and the girls selling handicrafts on the street. They’re some kind of beautiful mix of European and Latin American heritage. And somehow even the turistas are prettier for it. It’s overwelming. And, frankly, wonderful.
And that’s the last I’ll speak of it. At least for a little while.
Spanish class, aside from the occasional gastronomic letdown, is progressing well. The teacher that Kelly and I have had for the last couple of days has been a little mystified by our occasional elefante-sized gaps in our knowledge, but we’ve all managed to keep cool heads and are ending these somewhat intense 4 hour sessions as, for the most part, amigos. I’m learning some Spanish, and am proud and frustrated and hopeful for my skills. And I signed up for another week.
Kai moved in, and he is cool. And not Australian, but Austrian. He’s a good guy to have here, because he seems to be a doer, and as such likes to engage in activites that I may otherwise not think to do, like go to a Bocas Junior game. And we went out for medialunes this morning. Which are, BTW, a huge thing in Buenos Aires.
To sum up, for martes, el vienticinco de agosto:
No beans.
Beautiful women.
Spanish class.
Kai is good. And Austrian.
Topics to be dealt with on another occasion:
Free time stretching before me.
Out of books.
Need to find a place to live after 9/12.
Amazing drumming on Sunday.
Huge city, a mil varied barrios. Perspective changing every day.
Could easily find job, live here. Or anywhere.
La Boca (Not Burger)
Posted by Delaney in Argentina, Buenos Aires on August 20th, 2009
I took a little tour of La Boca (a barrio in Buenos Aires) as an extracurricular activity at school.
Here’s a picture of one of the super touristy bits:

The high points of the trip were:
A] Learning that I could understand at least a little of what Maribel (our troop leader and, yes, my roommate) was saying, enough to follow along a bit and laugh at some of the important parts, and
B] When the little kids walking home from school dressed in doctor coats (the school uniform of the neighborhood, mucho cute) waved and said, “Hola Turistas!” and,
C] Seeing El (la?) Stadia de Bocas Junior. It’s immense. And plopped down in the middle of an admittedly poor area, which makes it seem like the revenue generator for quite a few people. And the hordes of policia outside, ready to tackle the hooligans as they left the match.

Also, yo corro muy rapidmente. A la fin de semana, yo va correr largo.
On to tarea!
Chau, Delaney.
En La Academia
Posted by Delaney in Argentina, Buenos Aires on August 20th, 2009
En La Academia Buenos Aires.

The fourth floor of a giant old building about a block away from La Plaza de Mayo. It consists of a courtyard/lightwell surrounded by a dozen or so small classrooms. My classroom (at least thus far) has been on the mezzanine level, behind those dark glass panels on the right.
The coffee is very strong, almost Turkish. But it does the trick.








