Posts Tagged boliche

Things I Know About Buenos Aires, a Compendium

  1. There are some things that Portenos will not eat, like peanut butter and broccoli. They seem to have replaced these things with substitutes, though, like dulce de leche and acelga (first def.)—I’ve been eating a lot of both.
  2. Avenida 9 de Julio intersects with Corrientes and Avenida Santa Fe and Avenida del Libertador. Corrientes and Santa fe are parallel and connected by many streets such as Callao. Santa Fe and Corrientes are major shopping areas, like Florida and that street that runs perpendicular to Florida but is also a pedestrian-only street. And the closer you get to the Rio in Recoleta, the posher it gets until right before the water where it becomes a desolate abandoned port area. A lot like Retiro, which is fancy and full of amazing old architecture until right by the bus station, where it turns into favelas and guys stealing your wallets and satchels.
  3. Some things here are inexpensive, like delicious oranges and red wine and fancy buses with super-comfy seats and steak (obvo) and housing and health care. But some things aren’t, like durable goods and nice housing and cars and fancy health care from Germany or Switzerland and poorly made clothing and everyday toiletries and cheap plastic-y things that in the US would be imported from China. I can’t figure out the system; it seems arbitrary.
  4. As you move South from Palermo, Recoleta, the Microcentro to San Telmo and La Boca and beyond, the atmosphere moves from cosmopolitan to classical to bureaucratic to charming to full of character to a bit dodgy to dangerous.
  5. Portenos are well-read. They make me embarrassed about what I haven’t. Every bookstore window is full of treatises and heavy nonfiction work about global politics and big issues. These books don’t have pretty pictures on the cover, these are books made to educate. And they’re in the front window—these are the books that sell. My pseudo-conversations with the 18-year olds and taxi drivers tell me that these people like to learn about politics and global issues, and that they like to discuss them.
  6. Compared to the city I’ve been living in for the last 6 years, the per-capita percentage of runners is quite slim, but those who do run are champions. Their lungs and thighs are huge, due perhaps in part to their futbol experience.
  7. People are friendly and willing to help those of us who exude helplessness such as myself. Everyone is nice once they hear my abysmal Castellano and almost everyone responds very well to a smile. That is not to say, however, that in a city with 13 million people you don’t have to hold your ground on the sidewalk to pedestrians and sometimes motos and taxis.
  8. Dance clubs here disappoint. Maybe because (here I want to be judgmental instead of diplomatic, but may my better nature dominate) they don’t know how to have romantic relationships, even less than we Estados-Unidosians. Portenos seem to be incredibly insecure about romance and commitment. And courtship and love. And that manifests itself in really bad dancing to undanceable music. Diplomacy be damned.
  9. Buenos Aires makes me want a motorcycle. Even more.

To be continued,

Your Faithful Scribe.

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Teenage Boliche, Caffe Sap, Etc.

I went out for a long night on Friday to see Ben off, as he left to start traveling with the missus (which means girlfriend in British) on Saturday. We went to Doppelganger, which is a really great place, lots of fabulous atmosphere and well-crafted beverages, and continued on to Del Plata for meats, followed by Bar Seddon for a beer or two (and a bit of old-girlfriend-talk inanity on my part), then a club called Carnal that didn’t really live up to its name, and finally another club with no name and really terrible music populated (and staffed) by 18 year-olds. The conflict of the evening arose when I could not figure out the coat check at the last, unnamed club. There was a 20 peso cover charge which you might have thought included coat check, but sadly did not. I was, however, given a ticket that looked a lot like something one might use at a coat check but was instead to be used for beverages. After three or four trips back to pantomime with the 18 year-old staffing the coat check room, I managed to figure it out, and was able to dance awkwardly with the rest of the teenagers for an hour or so before we all just gave the hell up and went home. But it was fun, and sad to see Old Ben go.

Dinner at Del Plata
Steak at Del Plata At Del Plata The Bens at Doppelganger Glowing Caipirinha

Here’s a fun fact about Argentina: they don’t have butter knives. Argentines, at least Portenos, seem to like to eat a lot of Manteca (which means butter, contrary to what spanishdict.com might say), which is good, but every knife that I’ve come across in a home or restaurant has been a steak knife. So whenever you’re spreading butter you have to be careful. Seriously, these people like to eat some meat.

Also, my newest challenge is getting my hair cut. I learned today that it’s called a corte de pelo, and I think that if I say corto en los lados y un poco largo sobre el alto, it might work. At the very least I can show them a picture of myself on my phone, right? Seriously, this is terrifying; I hate getting my hair cut at home, and I speak English pretty well. Wish me luck, eh? Bueno Suerte?

Chau-zers.

P.S. Now that I have my own place, complete with complimentary french press, I’ve been making my own coffee out of the finely ground, black-as-night stuff that I can buy at Disco down the street. And as they don’t sell half and half in the supermercados here, I’ve had to make do with 100% cream. Add the giant-grained, unrefined sugar from my cupboard, and it’s some of the best coffee I’ve ever had. Seriously, I feel like I’m drinking the sap of the caffe tree or something.

Oh, and here’s an advertisement for the maraton that I will be winning in a couple weeks. It’s nice to see that it is, in fact, an actual event:
Billboard advertising the Maraton de Buenos Aires!

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No Polo en Sabado. Entonces, Bailado.

Fellow Travelers,

I was planning on going to a ladies polo match yesterday afternoon, but after walking a thousand miles into Palermo, I got a call from kind Anique saying that they had taken the bus there only to find that it had been canceled on account of mud. So I walked around Palermo a bit and enjoyed the nice day. I found an amazing park for running and paddleboating (if I ever decide to take that up as a hobby; a racquetball replacement?), which will come in very handy as I really need to rack up the running miles in the coming weeks.

I ended up walking around for a number of hours and got home pretty exhausted. So I ate lentejas y arroz and joined Ben and some nice Europeans for a drink before heading over to Jan and Juliana’s (remember, the German dentist?) hostel to watch the Brasil/Argentina game. It was, inevitably, a little weird. This game is, I’m told, a pretty big deal here, but all we turistas in the hostel couldn’t really muster up too much national pride for Argentina, and quite a few of us (guiltily) really had no idea what was going on on the screen, anyway. I did manage to make it to Plaza Dorrego to see the last sad few minutes of the game on a huge screen in the middle of all the cafes, and it had a much better atmosphere, even a little heckling from the Brasilianos. We stayed outside for an hour or two and drank some chopps before young Julie (my new Deutsch roommate) and I headed over to Kelly’s (from class) apartment to rendezvous before…

…heading out to a club at 2:30 in the morning!

What!? Seriously. I can’t get over this. It’s how it’s done here. Marcella the Revolutionary said that she’ll go out to a club once or twice a year and she’ll just go to bed early that night and wake up at two or three in the morning to go dancing. Que loco! Anyway, we stayed up really late and had a lot of fun and I saw some surprisingly horrible dancing and at 8:30 the next morning got medialunes and cafe doble with Kelly’s bouncer novio who insisted on correcting our pronunciation obsessively, although other than that he was a really nice guy.

The boliche:
Pacha Buenos Aires

And then, I went to bed and did very very little the next day. El fin.

Y, chau.

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