Posts Tagged dupe
El Micro, Simple Carbs
On my way to Salta, in the 12th hour of an 18 hour bus (micro) ride. It’s amazing how quickly time can pass when you’ve got a super-comfy seat, free alfajores, and a caffe dispenser nearby. This is only the third time I’ve been in a bus in Argentina, but I think I like it. I am, however,in the most expensive class right now (cama ejecutivo), which I may not be able to afford in the future. The terrain outside is amazingly, disconcertingly monotonous, just dry scablands interspersed by equally dry squares of farmland here and there, as flat as the Midwest. And very few buildings, only one-room shacks every mile or so.
A guy giving me the stink eye:

I’m ambivalent about leaving the city. I was, to be honest, getting a little aburrido in Buenos Aires. Don’t get me wrong, of course, I was enjoying my time spent with friends, and I had some fun going to tourist attractions, but I’d definitely settled into a routine. And I can have a routine back home, you know? People say that Buenos Aires is the easiest place in South America to live, and I have a feeling that my neighborhood was probably one of the easiest places to live in the city, so I’ll miss that, but I really feel ready for a change of pace. And to see something other than the same gray buildings around me. Last night, for instance, I saw stars outside my bus window and I realized that I hadn’t seen any stars in the city, not once. And I was happy to see them; hopefully I see more in the coming months.
In the middle of nothing:

A few other things:
I got my full cleaning/security deposit back from Marcela my landlady, minus 20 pesos for a bowl and an espresso cup that I’d broken. Unfortunately, I dismissed it when Marcela muttered something (half under her breath) about the $260 American that she gave me being the same cash that I’d given her at the start of my stay. I knew it wasn’t the same bills because I was never able to find American cash in the city, but figured that it was a language barrier thing and that Marcela meant she was just giving me what she owed me. In fact, I realized last night on the bus that the two hundred-dollar bills are counterfeit, and she was attempting to cover herself in case I noticed right away. Bummer. It’s just money, though, right?
My backpack is so gigantic. It’s like another me. I tried and tried yesterday to find things that I didn’t need and could send back home, but met very little success. I think I sent home one running outfit, some souvenirs, and my mouse. I might have saved myself 12 ounces. I’ll survive, and I really don’t think I’m lugging around anything I don’t need, but, dios mio, it’s a lot of stuff.
2 hours, one almuerzo later:
In the fancy Disco grocery down the street from my place in Recoleta, one can purchase a number of whole grain carbohydrate food choices for slightly less (but not a lot less) than the price in Estados Unidos. Other than that, we eat mostly refined white carbohydrates, potatoes, meat, some vegetables (usually in the form of sauces), and white, creamy cheese. It’s a nation with the appetite a of an 8-year old.
We’re getting closer to Salta now, I think. The bus has actually tilted upward a bit, and I see we’re moving toward some low mountains (I think we call them Sierras). The scenery has changed a bit, too, it now looks like the scrublands just West of Spokane, minus any trace of a pine tree, but with the addition of some low, twisted (now bare, as it’s still early Primavera) deciduous trees. The scenery is definitely changing. But man alive, there are no people, no buildings, no donkeys, not even any trash around. Hey, and there’s even a mountain peak in the distance!
There’s something going on with the toilet paper at public banos outside the major cities. At the first place we stopped, breakfast this morning, there was a man at a table seated beside small bundles of hygienic convenience napkins and none in the stalls. And at the place we stopped for almuerzo (simple carbs, meat, Fanta in a glass bottle, as usual), there was a woman outside the banos with a lockbox, with I’m not sure what inside. Elisabeth alluded to some difficulty with plumbing in the campo (and here I won’t get too graphic); I wonder if that has anything to do with it. Shades of Urinetown?
Chau.
Bad Luck, a Learning Experience
Posted by Delaney in Argentina, Buenos Aires on September 14th, 2009
I’m staying with Ben and Sonja and another nice Norwegian named Aina for a couple days until my new place in Recoleta opens up (tomorrow). I moved my stuff over to Ben’s on Sunday afternoon and had a bit of a misadventure.
I had my big backpack on, and my black satchel slung around my neck; I was also carrying a bag of food from my old place that I didn’t want to throw away so I thought it would be worth carrying the 5 or 6 blocks to my new digs. I made it to about 30 feet from the stoop of Ben’s building when I felt a bit of liquid drop onto my head. I didn’t think much of it, seeing as I’d had water from air conditioners & various other fluids drop onto my head walking down the street. However, it happened again (this time a whole lot more) a second or two later, and I thought that I’d had the misfortune of having someone’s dirty cleaning water thrown down onto me and my various bags. A woman brushed past me on the left just afterward and I thought it odd that she didn’t share my misfortune. She looked busy, however, so I didn’t think too much about it.
A kindly-looking middle-aged man across the street evidently saw what happened and gave a kind chuckle at my misfortune. He smiled and shook his head and pointed up at the building above me. I wasn’t too worried about it at this point; I knew that I had some pretty gross stuff on my head and bag but knew that I could take care of it as soon as I got inside the apartment. A few seconds later I arrived at Ben’s door and was ready to go in when the kindly man materialized next to me and took some tissues out of his pocket to help me clean off my head. I took some and wiped my head off. He suggested in rapid Spanglish and pantomime that I my bag was covered with the stuff and that I ought to set it down and he would help me clean it off. I was at the stoop at this point, and I rang the bell and was waiting to be let in (and my bag was pretty damned heavy), so I set my black satchel down, rested my big bag on top of it, and set my bag of food next to it. They were all directly in front of me, in the stoop of Ben’s building.
Kindly man magnanimously offered his bottle of water to help clean the (really, very disgusting, viscous, green, and rotten-meat-smelling) stuff off my bag. This is getting a little weird, isn’t it? Why is the man being so nice? Are you getting suspicious yet? So I took some of his proffered tissues, wet it with his water, and proceeded to wipe down my bag a bit. Keep in mind that I had my bags at my feet (still in the stoop) the whole time, and my attention was directed wholely at them as I waited to be let in. Until, that is, the kindly, decently dressed, helpful older man moved down the street a few feet and started speaking in rapid Spanish. He was holding up his bottle of water and tissues and said, (as far as I can remember) “You can buy these at the store for 2 pesos.” What a bizarre thing to say, right?
My attention returned to my bags and at the same time a couple of ladies opened the door to Ben’s lobby and asked me in. I gathered up my bags, set them in the foyer, saw Ben coming out of the elevator and made a pretty horrible realization:
I was missing a bag. Didn’t you see that coming?
I had a pretty agonizing fifteen or twenty minutes in which Ben took my bags up to his flat for me and I ran around the neighborhood looking for a kindly, evil man porting my satchel around. I was hating, hating, the people of Buenos Aires at this point, and despising myself for being so easily duped. I was trying to remember what I’d put into the black satchel, too, as I’d used it as a bit of a catch-all after I’d packed most everything else into my big bag. Of course, I’d thought I’d lost my passport, my credit cards (again), all my documentation, my iPhone, camera, and everything else I might possibly need to continue traveling and maybe even get home if I needed to. I was in a bad place.
I came home, Ben talked me down off the ledge (and made some tea, which I liked), and I gradually took stock of what I’d lost. It turns out that the only thing of value was about $100 in American (my backup emergency funds), my dorky glasses, and sadly my camera, which I hope my credit card’s travel insurance will cover. And I’d already gotten all the pictures off it the night before.
So, did you figure out what happened? The liquid didn’t come from the apartment above, the lady threw the green rotten meat juice at me. And the man moved my attention down the street to allow someone (the lady?) to snatch my bag as I was trying to understand what the hell he was talking about. This all happened in the space of 30 seconds. And I was at the door of my new apartment.
Blerg.
I’m going to the police station today and skyping my credit card company again to report the camera stolen, which should be fun.














